Leather Vs Pleather - A Double Edged Sword

Is wearing vegan leather better for you and the planet? Can leather be sustainable? Whichever way you slice it, there will be pros and cons.

What Is Vegan Leather?

The word vegan leather is a polyonymous name that can lead to many interpretations. We have all heard faux leather, pleather etc. However, it all means essentially the same thing, which is that it is a material that simulates leather without using animal skin. Fake Leather or vegan leather is often composed of synthetics like plastic and sometimes natural materials like cork.

The most common materials for synthetic leathers are PVC or polyvinyl chloride and polyurethane. Both of which are plastic materials and is how the term pleather arouse. Pleather literally means plastic leather.

Due to these two common and questionable materials, we have to wonder how safe/sustainable is vegan leather?

How Is Vegan Leather Made?

Synthetic leather is made through a completely different industrial process than genuine leather. Most common practice involves bonding plastic coatings to a fabric backing. The types of chemicals and plastics used are what defines it as sustainable or eco-friendly.

PVC releases dioxins which can be dangerous, especially to those working with it. It becomes even more dangerous if it is burnt. Additionally, PVC uses phthalates to make it flexible. Depending on the phthalates used, they can be very toxic. Greenpeace describes phthalates as the “single most environmentally damaging type of plastic”.

PU (polyurethane) is a little less harmful than PVC. It is regularly undergoing developments to reduce flaws like hazardous toxins released during manufacturing. Additionally, it is made using oil based polymers which make use of fossil fuels.

Is Vegan Leather Good For The Environment?

The word vegan makes us believe that it must be better for the environment than it’s animal product counterpart. However, that isn’t always the case. The manufacturing process of synthetic leathers is not eco-friendly. The cheapest synthetic leathers release toxins that can lead to developmental and reproductive issues, some even cause cancers. Additionally, vegan leathers aren’t biodegradable. They can be broken down slightly, but they continue to release toxic chemicals and phthalates into the environment.

What About Genuine Leather?

Over years the use of leathers and furs has continuously been debased. Granted, there are a lot of instances of harmful practices like animal cruelty and pollution. However, can real leather be better for the environment than vegan leather?

Can Leather Be Sustainable?

Sustainable leather is often a byproduct of local farming and agriculture industries. Leather will never be animal friendly, but most sustainable leathers comes from animals that are raised for meat, so it doesn’t require any additional resources.

Traditional leather is heavily criticized for the environmental impact because of the tanning process. However, that doesn’t mean leather can’t be eco-friendly as well. This leather is produced using chemicals that are much safer for the planet, which also make the leather safer to wear. Some production standards for eco-leather require a limit on chemical usage, while others specify the use of only natural materials in the production process.

The most common chemicals in conventional leather can be extremely harmful. Chemicals like chromium, formaldehyde, azo dyes and PCPs are most often used in the tanning process. Exposure to these chemicals are linked to respiratory and developmental issues as well as being linked to cancers.

In addition to few chemicals in the production process of sustainable leather, it is also more energy efficient. Traditional leather processing requires huge quantities of water and the skin must pass through roughly 40 processing stages.

In an effort to protect the environment, the chemicals used in the tanning process are mechanically filtered out of the water in sewage facilities or are modified into non-toxic substances. What this means is that the water used can be reused which limits the need for fresh water.

Leather Vs. Pleather - How To Choose?

The choice is yours. Either way, they both come with benefits and downsides. It’s a double edged sword.

Real leather, especially when made sustainably and ethically does little damage to the environment. The negative side of this, is that you are wearing an animals skin. With vegan leathers, they are the opposite. Pleather production is often harmful to the environment, but an animal wasn’t killed.

Would you rather wear plastic chemicals and save an animal or wear sustainable genuine leather that cost an animal its life?